A Scandinavian Sojourn.
5 Countries in 15 Days: Germany, Finland, Estonia, Sweden, and Norway.
A Journey with Kris, Travel Concierge’s Head of Marketing.
My husband Glenn and I are frequent travelers, determined to see as much of the world as possible. Keeping exploration at the top of our “us time list” isn’t always easy because of our bi-coastal work schedules, but we aim to keep travel a priority in our marriage. Whether we’re planning a new itinerary, or have just returned from the last, our destinations seem to suddenly appear — or reappear — before our eyes. Maybe it’s in the news, in a movie, or in a book we’re reading, but without fail, those places in our hearts continue to rest at the forefront of our minds.
For example, last month Berlin was in the news for its citywide power-reserve program when scorching summer temperatures spread across Europe. Around that same time, Helsinki’s Prime Minister made international headlines for being questioned about her right to have a party-filled social life. Estonia’s capital of Tallinn was in the news when a cruise ship was found housing Ukrainian refugees. Sweden was right behind with the announcement of its new Prime Minister, Ulf Kristersson. Even Oslo — as the 6th largest producer of oil — was in the spotlight after reaching a record high in exports driven by current gas prices.
All these breaking headlines confirmed our desire to explore those same five countries in 15 days. Sound crazy? Perhaps. “But certainly doable,” I told my husband, as I dropped pins on my Google maps app.
Traveling is nothing new to us; in fact, we try to escape once a month for brief weekend getaways. We’ve been known to fly over 16 hours each way to spend just three nights in a country. This painful pattern of jet lag coupled with equal amounts of time in the air as on the ground was a habit I longed to break. And thus, our 15-day trip was born.
Despite the trip’s duration, I promised my husband Glenn that I would travel light. He’s an adamant non-checker of bags, claiming that if everything can’t fit inside a carry-on, then it doesn’t belong on the trip. Somehow, I managed to cram five outfits into one bag, with a plan to have my micro-wardrobe laundered upon arrival in each country.
Enter Berlin, Germany.
We intended to spend our first three days in Berlin at The Ritz Carlton. Boy am I’m glad we acclimated in style. Located on Germany’s famous Potsdamer Platz, the hotel gives a nod to the roaring 20s. Right outside the property, we were greeted by “Buddy Bear,” one of over 500 statues in the city that represent tolerance. This unofficial ambassador of Berlin was a welcome vision promoting peace across global cultures. It seems fitting that this area is where the final few cement blocks of the Berlin Wall remain as a symbol of Germany’s freedom.
Just 33 years ago, this guarded concrete barrier fell, opening the borders between East and West Germany. That lingering vision of Communism seemed paradoxical to the perfection of our neighboring hotel.
The door of the Ritz opened, welcoming us to 5-star luxury gift-wrapped in the Golden Age. With its Art Deco style, it’s the type of place where you envision Great Gatsby, Frank Sinatra, and Marilyn Monroe sharing a cocktail in a plume of smoke. Glamourous is an understatement, with a Cigar Club boasting premium malt scotches that can make a grown man cry. Our server poured without looking, flawlessly handing Glenn a smooth and mature liberal dose of liquid heaven. He is the scotch drinker of the family, and I'm more the red wine/champagne type of gal.
We could have stayed forever, but alas, we had to balance out the booze and cigars with gastronomy and Michelin stars. Onward, to Cookies Cream, a vegetarian speak-easy of sorts, located in a hidden alleyway used for deliveries. That “secret” location through a warehouse added to the intrigue, plus the innovative plant-based dishes like parmesan dumplings and seaweed caviar were mind-blowing.
When it came to eating, we had no intention of sacrificing, and in fact, this is where we intended to go big, or go home. Rutz — the first and only three-star restaurant in Berlin — delivered on all counts. Fine wines and gourmet dishes by chef Marco Müller worked their way onto our table. The walls were lined floor-to-ceiling with bottles of beautiful blends.
“Waiter, I’ll have another.”
That was our theme, a bit of “us time” with extraordinary dining by night, and a splash of culture by day. That took us to Helmut Newton’s Photographic Museum, a bite-size museum just small enough to not overwhelm, but prolific enough to make you want to learn more. As an iconic figure in the world of fashion photography, Helmut Newton was widely known for his provocative, erotically charged black-and-white photos.
Art prevailed both inside the museums and on the streets, with graffiti that looked more like works of art than creative crime. We capped our time in Berlin with lunch at the Waldorf Astoria’s rooftop lounge, inhaling the historic city that had won us over in just three days.
Enter Helsinki, Finland.
It was Helsinki that lured us on days 4, 5, and 6. This time, we stayed at the iconic, 130-year-old Hotel Kamp, fronting the downtown Esplanade — the place to see and be seen. That’s where we had our own dose of people-watching, as prestigious locals paraded past the five-star grand hotel.
When in Finland, hit the sauna. It’s not a leisurely activity, as much as it is a cultural habit. Plus, we needed to rid ourselves of all the toxins we had accumulated in Berlin. At the Löyly Helsinki, we booked a private seaside sauna, followed by a light lunch at the stylish, glass-walled restaurant with sweeping water views.
For our foodie fix, we later dined at Ragu, specializing in seasonal ingredients and unfussy Italian recipes. We worked off those calories during our next day’s walk up the stairs of the Helsinki Cathedral. Those who make it to the top of the steep steps are rewarded with a view of the town square, perfectly framed by the ubiquitous green Helsinki tram.
Our tracks led to Helsinki’s Train Station, just a stone’s throw from cafes, shops, and the famous Finnish Farmer’s Market. This harbor-side oasis offers just about everything your palate could desire: fresh fruit, salmon soup, perch, eel, and even reindeer.
Glenn and I market-hopped, heading from the Finnish Farmer’s Market to the historic Old Market Hall next to the Helsinki wharf. At Finland’s oldest indoor market there were rows of every type of caviar imaginable. As a vegetarian, not my cup of tea, but anyone who has read any of Jeff’s blogs know that he would have been in caviar heaven.
To feed our minds, we headed to the Helsinki Central Library Oodi, known to lure people with its gardens, architecture, and collection of literature. For the two of us, it had us hooked with its rooftop café and breathtaking views.
Enter Tallinn, Estonia.
So far, our Scandinavian odyssey was hitting all the sweet spots, and continued to do so on days 7–9 in Tallinn, Estonia. We cruised across the Baltic, disembarking two hours later near Old Town. Dating back to the 13th century, the UNESCO World Heritage Site had narrow cobblestone alleys, medieval towers, and Hanseatic architecture.
Tucked between the vibrant, breathtakingly beautiful buildings were fast-food chains like McDonalds, Burger King, and Dunkin Donuts. This tainted vision of American convenience sent us escaping to Restaurant Härg. The all-day brasserie impressed us with its stone walls, exposed ducting, and copper chandeliers; but it was the grilled dishes and salted cucumbers that had me scribbling down recipes.
(Yep, I posted cucumbers on social media.)
There’s good reason, however. One of my fondest childhood memories was going to the grocery store with my mother. I always made a beeline to the deli for fresh pickles straight from the barrel. Until this visit to Härg, I never imagined I could again find that perfect pickle.
Travel has the power to do that, to awaken senses we haven’t experienced in decades; and it has the generosity to gift us with new memories along the way.
Hotel Schlossle unveiled those special moments over a lovely lunch at this darling 5-star boutique hotel. The trip seemed to get better by the day.
In Tallinn, we went out with a bang over a six-course, five-hour dinner at 180 Degrees, located in Port Noblessner. Cooking in an open kitchen, Chef Matthias Diether was like a culinary artist with his exclusive tasting menu.
The next day, we said farewell to Tallinn as we boarded the Baltic Queen for an overnight journey across the Baltic Sea.
Enter Stockholm, Sweden.
We hit Stockholm with gusto, ready for days 10–13 of our journey. The Stockholm archipelago welcomed us with its cluster of some 30,000 islands, skerries, and rocks just minutes from the city.
For lodging, we selected the waterfront Grand Hotel, home to celebrities, Nobel Laureates, and royalty. . .oh, and an amazing breakfast! Opened in 1874, the hotel treated us to a room-with-a-view overlooking the Royal Palace, the Stockholm House of Parliament, and old town.
At the Cadier Bar, I raised a glass of champagne and proposed a toast to the trip “we didn’t have time for,” never knowing if it could come to fruition. I’m so glad we pushed obligations aside for this adventure. All those tasks we put on hold would eventually get done, and the payoff would be this journey of a lifetime.
Perhaps it was the island of Gamla Stan that made that day so special, or our chance to reconnect during those two glorious weeks. Clearly, the setting had something to do with our enchanting afternoon. We walked through the island’s labyrinth of cobblestone streets framed by townhouses painted in shades of mustard and rust. On that rainy afternoon, we strolled through town squares and artisan shops, making use of my new cherry-red Swedish rainwear from Stutterheim — which brings me to the shopping.
Wow. The shopping was amazing. I walked away with three years’ worth of birthday and Christmas presents, which sadly didn’t fit in that single carry-on. Thank goodness for UPS.
It was a good day.
Enter Oslo, Norway.
Wrapping up our Scandinavian soiree were two days at The Grand Hotel in Oslo. Perhaps not as “grand” as the one in Stockholm, but still grand nonetheless. Located in the heart of the city, it was just steps from the Royal Palace, historical sights, boutiques, and restaurants.
Guarding our hotel was the bronzed statues of the Fearless Girl, created by sculptor, Kristen Visbal. Installed in 2018 for International Women’s Day, the statue is a symbol of female empowerment, and perhaps one of my favorite works of art.
As a female leader and board member of a women’s leadership organization, I took this piece to heart, snapping countless photographs of this vision of strength and motivation. That afternoon, we got our fix of statues at the sculpture park with more than 200 sculptures by Gustav Vigeland.
Our last leisurely days were spent wining and dining at the Grand’s rooftop bar and visiting historical landmarks including the Oslo Opera House and the Munch Museum —dedicated to the life and works of Norwegian artist, Edvard Munch. Our favorite pastime was getting lost in the beauty of the vibrant architecture and wandering along cobblestone streets in search of joy.
Without a doubt, we found what we were looking for.
Enter Home.
Those five countries in 15 days had me laughing at our original question, “Is the trip doable?”. Now I’d have to say, it was a “necessity,” taking us away from our laptops and phones to a place one can only find outside our borders and inside our hearts.