My Rajasthan Rhapsody.
Palaces, Leopards, and a side of Masala.
By Lana Herzan, Travel Concierge Client Experience Designer
At Travel Concierge, we partner only with select travel visionaries—those who embody the same passion for excellence and authenticity that define our brand. This past April, I had the privilege of journeying through India with one such visionary, Travel Scope’s founder, Mohan Narayanaswamy.
Known affectionately as “Magical Mohan,” he doesn’t just design itineraries—he orchestrates them, weaving culture, history, and wonder into a seamless symphony. What unfolded was a journey that changed me forever, one breathtaking moment at a time.
Delhi: Bubble Baths & Rickshaw Rallies.
First stop: The Oberoi, New Delhi. Where better to recover from jet lag than a hotel that feels part luxury retreat, part Lutyens-era time capsule? My room overlooked Humayun’s Tomb through the Delhi haze, giving me serious “Mughal-meets-minimalist” vibes. The bathtub could have doubled as a small swimming pool—I’d have happily stayed submerged for 48 hours, but Delhi had other plans. Old Delhi was a kaleidoscope of rickshaws, spice markets, and cows who clearly outrank traffic laws. One moment I was sipping masala chai, the next I was clinging to a cycle rickshaw like Indiana Jones in a linen blouse. [Spoiler: I loved it.]
Agra: A Love Letter in Marble
Next stop: Agra. Home of the Taj Mahal and The Oberoi Amarvilas, where every room looks out at the world’s most romantic tomb. I woke at 5 a.m. for a sunrise view, and I swear it glowed as if Shah Jahan himself flipped a celestial light switch. The marble shifted from blush pink to glowing gold to dazzling white—pure magic.
We also explored the Agra Fort, basically a medieval red sandstone city. Fun fact: it’s the only place I’ve ever seen parrots, tourists, monkeys, and wedding processions in the same ten minutes. Dinner at Esphahan was a spiritual awakening via lentils and live music. Michelin who?
Udaipur: Venice with a Sari.
The flight to Udaipur was short, but the memories were endless. The Oberoi Udaivilasmade me question why I’d ever stayed anywhere less than a palace. A tuk-tuk ride through the old city ended with a surprise watercolor session with a local artist, whose family once photographed royalty. Because… why not?
Udaipur is a city of lakes, lanterns, and fairy tales. I tried painting, shopping, even jal sanjhi(painting on water—yes, really). The city whispers rather than shouts—until the Mountbatten Supper Club cranks up Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin on a rooftop, and suddenly you’re dining under the stars with new friends. The following night, dinner at The Leela Palace arrived by boat beneath a starlit sky. Rajasthan doesn’t just serve meals; it serves theater.
Jawai: Land of Leopards.
If Udaipur was a fairy tale, Jawai was a wilderness poem. At SUJÁN Jawai Camp, the “tents” looked suspiciously like five-star suites (think safari chic designed for Vogue). Relais & Châteaux has perfected the art of luxury glamping here.
By night, we sat under a sky of infinite stars, sipping G&Ts by the fire. By day, we roamed leopard country, bouncing over boulders in jeeps while Rabari shepherds in bright red turbans spotted leopards the way I spot croissants in a bakery.
But the soul of SUJÁN Jawai lies in its people. Proceeds from SUJÁN Jawai Camp fund local schools, healthcare, and conservation. A mobile medical clinic runs six days a week across five villages, and 13 schools have been adopted to boost education. Meeting the children who benefit from this program was even more memorable than the leopard sightings!
Narlai: A Dream in Lantern Light
In Narlai, the past doesn’t whisper—it sings. One evening, we descended into a 16th-century stepwell, where more than a thousand lanterns glowed like fireflies caught in stone. Their light danced across carved walls as a lone musician—India’s own Bob Dylan—sat cross-legged on a pillow, his voice, and strings weaving through the night like an ancient lullaby. It was less a dinner than it was a spell. And just when I thought Rajasthan couldn’t possibly outdo itself, dawn proved me wrong. “Magical Mohan” did it again. A pre-dawn safari carried us into the hushed stillness of the land, until suddenly—there it was: a champagne breakfast laid at the edge of the horizon. As the sun spilled its first light over the hills, we clinked glasses to a moment so cinematic, it could only be described as perfection.
Jodhpur: The Blue City & My Red Lipstick.
Onward to Jodhpur, where every wall is blue and every vendor swears their bangles will change your life. Mehrangarh Fort rises like a stone crown, and inside it? A palace, a museum, and at least three ghosts (probably). I stayed at RAAS before moving on to the pièce de résistance: Taj Umaid Bhawan Palace. There, I wandered marbled hallways in a red sari whispering, “I am royalty” under my breath. And honestly? For a moment, I truly believed it.
The People: Rajasthan’s Brightest Jewel.
More than the forts, palaces, and peacocks, it was the people who stole my heart. Rajasthanis wear their colors not just on their saris and turbans, but in their spirits—kind, generous, endlessly welcoming. From the shepherd who waved us toward leopard tracks to the shopkeeper who insisted on chai, every encounter felt like stepping into a story. They don’t just greet you—they fold you into their world with kindness and a sparkle in their eye.
Final Thoughts.
This wasn’t just a trip—it was a masterclass in opulence, culture, and wild beauty. From palace suites to leopard tracks, every moment in Rajasthan felt like a scene in a movie I never wanted to end. The food, the fabrics, the fortresses—each one a love letter to India’s soul.
I went seeking luxury, but I found something far richer: a deeper connection to history, humanity, and myself. India isn’t for the faint of heart—it’s for the full of heart. For the color-drunk, curry-loving, fort-climbing, chaos-embracing traveler who finds joy in honking rickshaws and surprise monkeys. (And if you don’t like that type of thing, avoid Delhi!)
I went looking for magic in Rajasthan—and oh, did I find it. Along with leopard tracks, a sunset I still don’t believe was real, and an obsession with paneer I may never recover from. India didn’t just meet my expectations—it out-charmed them. I left a piece of my heart in Rajasthan and will return again to reclaim it in October 2026. If you are interested in joining me, or at another date of your own choice, click here to contact me.
I hope you’ll join me!
—Lana